Amalfi, slowly

There’s a stretch of the Amalfi coast road where the bus driver slows down without anyone asking — because everyone on board has stopped talking and started looking.

I spent four days there without a real plan: lemon groves that smell like something out of a memory you didn’t know you had, long lunches that turned into long afternoons, and a habit of looking up that I didn’t have before I arrived.

If you go: skip the tour bus schedule and rent a room for at least three nights in one town. The coast rewards staying still.